Coefficient LT Gear Review | Sooji Clarkson

Coefficient LT Gear Review | Sooji Clarkson

A well-fitted, packable midlayer with insulation designed for movement … and good enough to wear to a wedding

Recently I spent the NZ shoulder season over in the Canadian Rockies and Yosemite, first ski mountaineering and then big wall climbing. Airline baggage limits aren’t particularly forgiving for someone who wants gear for longer ski tours, alpine climbing, free and big wall climbing.  So I’ve been thinking a lot about which items got the most use across the whole trip.


For a midlayer, I took along the Black Diamond Coefficient LT Hoody and thought I’d write about it as I ended up wearing this between climbing and skiing much (much!) more than I anticipated.

I also brought along some thicker baselayers that I’ve tended to wear in colder conditions. Next trip I’ll just take the Coefficient LT and a thinner baselayer (I took the Black Diamond Alpenglow Pro). Skiing I wore the Black Diamond Highline Stretch shell over the top, which provided much needed wind and spindrift resistance.

Breaking trail for the boys across to the summit of Mt Aberdeen (3152m) behind Lake Louise
Breaking trail for the boys across to the summit of Mt Aberdeen (3152m) behind Lake Louise… the classic combination of freezing and sweating
Photo Credit: Jacob Downie

The Coefficient LT is an overall lightweight midlayer, but with thin Primaloft panels down the front. This tailored insulation/ventilation approach helps you take care in not overheating. Particularly in the back and underarms – where layers always end up getting sweat soaked first. This makes it an excellent choice for adding to a baselayer when on the move. Just add a windbreaker layer on top (hardshell for skiing, ultralight windbreaker for climbing).

I found the Coefficient LT packs enough insulation to wear through a belay in cooler or windy summer conditions, especially as your core is given a priority in insulation. However, as the insulation is concentrated only on the front, I found I could climb and move without overheating.

If it was warmer, would I have worn only a baselayer? Obviously yes. Similarly, would I have been cold belaying if it was significantly colder? Obviously yes. But I have appreciated the extended range of temperatures and activities the Coefficient seems to work comfortably at for me.

Leading out the crux on the Shield. In the shade of the morning, hooking a beak over a rusty fixed RURP – at least I was still physically comfortable in the same layers, if not completely psychologically
Leading out the crux on the Shield. In the shade of the morning, hooking a beak over a rusty fixed RURP.  I was physically comfortable in the same layers, if not completely psychologically!
Photo Credit: Owen Lee

Layers and fit

Being able to climb in your belaying layers is ideal and allows you to climb with less on your harness. The most I added was an ultralight windbreaker layer clipped to the back. The convective winds whipping upwards on parts of El Capitan can be brutal through about 1100am to nightfall, even when it’s insufferably hot in the valley below!

My uniform for most of the month was the Highline shell over Coefficient LT midlayer and Alpenglow Pro baselayer,

Equally important to this is comfort and fit, and (sorry guys, can’t speak for you here!) the women’s fit in the Coefficient is excellent. It’s not just about looking smart.

Excess fabric around the waist (or too little around the shoulders or in the length) is a large factor in comfort when moving all day, especially with a harness on.

There are honestly many options for midlayers out there, with similar sorts of fabrics.

The difference is design points, and the winning points in the Coefficient LT for me are the targeted insulation, and the well designed, comfortable tailored fit.

A bit of kit I’m happy to wear from 3000ers in the Rockies, to long hours belaying and aid climbing, to the pub after… I even wore it to my brother’s wedding (freshly washed, I swear)!

Banner image: El Capitan mega-classic The Shield C3+ A3, with the Nose of El Capitan below.  Alpenglow Pro baselayer, Coefficient LT midlayer, and an ultralight windbreaker on top – perfect for both leading and jumaring, with a belay puffer jacket on top only when it got viciously windy.
Photo Credit: Owen Lee

 

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